When we originally started planning our trip to Peru, we were planning to only go for 17 days. This was our "everything goes extremely well" plan. I think it is very unrealistic, but wanted to post it for comments and also so we can continue to learn.

Overview

The city of Huaraz is located in the Santa Rio Valley, and is surrounded by the Cordilleras Blanca, Negra and Huayhuash. Because of its location, this area has become the stomping grounds for hikers, backpackers and mountaineers from all over the world.

Huaraz, like most Peruvian towns, surrounds a central plaza, the Plaza de Armas. Avenida Luzuriaga, the main throughfare of the city, runs along the western side of the Plaza. Here you'll find tour companies, restaurants, shops, street vendors and hostels. The town spreads east and west away from Av. Luzuriaga.

To help protect and conserve the region's spectacular mountain landscape and culture, the Parque Nacional Huarscaran was established in 1975. It encompasses all of the Cordillera Blanca above 4000 meters -- some 3400 square kilometers. The current S/.65 ($18.50) multiple day park fee, while affordable to the international tourist, is well beyond the reach of the average Peruvian. If you hike in the park you will see few if any locals, especially deep in the range.

Overview

Peru is located on the west coast of South America just south of the Equator. Peru is a developing nation, and a wide range of tourist facilities and services are available.

Getting There

Flights

We planned originally to fly to Lima, and then bus it to Huaraz and use that as our base.

Most tickets were $1000+ from Pittsburgh. Flying out of Philly midweek is significantly cheaper, and 2+ stops on the flight (yea, yea, pain in the ass) is cheaper still.

Currently there is no regular air service or passenger trains that service the Huaraz area.

Buses

Lima to Huaraz typically takes 7 to 8 hours on a bus.

Most South American buses are clean, and efficient. The most reliable bus companies, run full charter buses with reclining chairs (bus camas), video monitors and come with undercarriage luggage space. Some buses serve on-route snacks and have a restroom in the back. It is always advisable to check and see that the bus you are taking is direct. Those that are not direct, which are usually the cheaper bus companies, often stop and pick up passengers along the road. Bus robberies are not unheard of, and there have been cases of groups of people entering full buses and robbing everyone on board. Avoid this experience by paying a little more and taking direct buses.

Within this range, there are 25 peaks above 6,000 meters, 15 of which are above 20,000 ft (6,096 m). The highest mountain in the range is Nevado Huascaran, at 22,205 ft (6,768 m), the tallest in Peru and the 4 highest in South America. The range is 180 kilometers long and 20 kilometers wide, and runs roughly parallel to the Pacific coastline.

The main climbing season is May to early September during Peru's dry season and winter.

Found this real nice trip report: 6 weeks in Cordillera Blanca and Huayhuash (LOTS of pictures)

Starting my trip planning for the Feb 1-4, 2007 attempt of the traverse.

The Presidential Traverse is a standard epic much favored by hikers in New Hampshire’s White Mountains, usually only attempted in the summer in favorable weather. This is due to its length (20.8 miles), its ascents and descents (8900 feet of climbing and 8200 feet of descent), and its extensive time in exposure  above treeline (11.5 miles from Madison to Eisenhower).

Ascents of Madison, Adams, Jefferson, (Clay), Washington, Monroe, (Franklin), Eisenhower, Pierce and Jackson.

The goal of a winter Presidential Traverse is simple on paper. Start at the north end of the range and take the weekend to hike between 18 and 24 miles to the south side at Crawford Notch. However, the reality of the situation comes in the form of steep trails, nearly 50 pound backpacks, hiking with crampons, temperatures dropping below zero, fatigue and just plain foul weather. Nearly fifty percent of the time, said guide Dan Doherty, the group will not complete the traverse. Instead, they will bail out to safety. That is part of mountaineering. "If you can't pull off the big goal, you can still have a safe trip," said Doherty.

In the end, packs weigh in the upper 40 pound range. Two three man tents are divided. Fuel bottles and food are distributed. Ice axes, ski poles, crampons, sleeping bags, sleeping pads, goggles, parkas and more are all packed into the bags. Snowshoes are carried during deep snow years.

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