(based on a handout from the ECP Rock School)

The best training for climbing is climbing.

Expand your "library" of climbing moves.

• There are literally thousands of different climbing areas with over a million routes. Each route possesses slightly different character and form requiring you to execute somewhat different techniques and tactics in every case. Climbing movements may be similar, but the moves feel different due to variations in rock type, angle and frictional properties.
• Goal = climb on as many different types of rock as possible to expand your “library”

Your body cannot go where the mind has not gone first

• Motivation multiplies talent.
• Set goals that compel action.
• Discipline leads to excellence.
• Crank up your confidence.
• Visualize success.
• Differentiate reasonable and unreasonable fears.
• Turn down the pressure

General conditioning is the most effective type of fitness training for beginner climbers.

Pop City did a writeup on the Idea Round Up and has a section on my idea for the old bridge pier climbing wall:

While some ideas addressed ambitious issues such as the distribution of wealth and air quality, others smacked of overnight success. "Manchester Climbing Wall," developed by Bloomfield resident Sid Wiesner, would transform an obsolete North Shore bridge pier into a unique outdoor amenity. It’s the type of fresh thinking, both creative yet practical, that could become a reality.

Wiesner, who tested the pier’s climbing potential firsthand, plans to approach local businesses and organizations such as REI, Venture Outdoors and the Explorers Club of Pittsburgh. He has talked with civil engineers and feels the project requires minimal funding. "It would be a great new attraction in the city that is not indoors."

A few weeks ago, I went with Brian and Trish to the Idea Round Up event hosted by the Sprout Fund here in Pittsburgh. At the event, they pledged $100,000 USD directly towards ideas contributed during the day's sessions. I proposed building a climbing wall on an old bridge pier in front of the Steelers stadium, and it made it into the final round of ideas that were presented to all 300 attendees. The idea write up can be found here.

Shortly after, I received a call from the Pittsburgh Post-Gazette newspaper, asking to run a forum or editorial piece about my idea. Here is the story that I contributed, and that was printed on September 17, 2006.

Since I started climbing, I've heard a lot about lifetimes of ropes and other climbing gear. "Retire all slings after 3-5 years." "Ropes every 5 years." "Don't use booty gear from the crags." I personally think that last one was just the bastards trying to snag my booty gear.

But of course some friends are still climbing with 15 year old ropes ("only toprope") and using booty biners from all over. It is cool to see a Black Diamond site devoted to experiments to determine the effect that age, sun, and other factors have on gear.

• Spectra vs. nylon slings and how it wears:

  "A guy here at work had two quickdraws sitting in the back of his open pickup truck for over 6 years. They have seen sun, snow, rain, heat, cold, etc, etc.. Fortunately for me, one was spectra, one was nylon. Ah ha....

  Remember, when new, the rating for a sling is 22kN. Also remember that typical falls in the field are in the 2kN (sporto soft catch) to 5kN (harsh, kidney-wrenching) range.