(based on a handout from the ECP Rock School [1])

The best training for climbing is climbing.

Expand your "library" of climbing moves.

• There are literally thousands of different climbing areas with over a million routes. Each route possesses slightly different character and form requiring you to execute somewhat different techniques and tactics in every case. Climbing movements may be similar, but the moves feel different due to variations in rock type, angle and frictional properties.
• Goal = climb on as many different types of rock as possible to expand your “library”

Your body cannot go where the mind has not gone first

• Motivation multiplies talent.
• Set goals that compel action.
• Discipline leads to excellence.
• Crank up your confidence.
• Visualize success.
• Differentiate reasonable and unreasonable fears.
• Turn down the pressure

General conditioning is the most effective type of fitness training for beginner climbers.

• Reducing body weight is often the fastest way to improve strength to weight ratio. Aerobic training 20-60 minutes, 3-7 days a week.
• Flexibility training will prevent injuries and improve performance.

Sport specific training is the most effective type of fitness training for advanced climbers.

• Endurance training: Overdose yourself on long routes and traverses that are well below your limit. The goal is to climb for 60-90 minutes continuously while avoiding the forearm pump. You break the time into 3 segments with 10-minute breaks in between.
• Strength training: "If you cannot pull a single hard move, you have nothing to endure" (Tony Yaniro). Finger strength is key. Bouldering, fingerboard and campus training are all forms of strength training, but none is complete without the others. A productive strength training session must have the following:
• High intensity
• Rapid failure
• Specific movement
• Isolate grips
• Stamina training: Continuous, medium to high intensity boulder problems lasting from 1 to 5 minutes. Not to easy, not to hard.
• Muscle balance: Push muscle exercises:
• Push-ups
• Shoulder press
• Dips
• Reverse wrist curls

Value rest and proper nutrition as much as climbing.

• Quality rest is the key to getting stronger. You need to be aware of your body’s signals.
• Eat following the food pyramid for balanced meals. Stay within your caloric needs.