Mountain Quickie
- Height: 18,897 feet (5,760 meters)
- Normal route: Southwest Ridge
- Grade [0]: AD- since 2004
- Elevation gain: 1,150 meters from base camp; 850 meters from moraine camp
- Time: 3-5 hours from moraine camp
- Equipment: crampons, axe (with at least 1 person in the party with 2), 50m ropes, pickets
Overview
The name Pisco is possibly derived from the great amounts of pisco (a Peruvian liquor) [1] consumed to celebrate the first ascent. It is a strong foul drink, but well worth a try. Nowadays Pisco is a very popular peak for climbers to acclimatize for a 6000er as well as for guided trekking groups at the end of their tour. The normal route typically takes 3 days roundtrip from Huaraz to the summit. The mountain is set right in the heart of the Cordillera Blanca, so the views are great, and the mountain itself has a nice pyramid shape.
The climb is almost entirely of snow after the first half hour, although this has changed in recent years. Reaching the summit on slopes of varying degrees, culminating in a tricky final ascent of a snow mushroom. During that last few years, the summit of Pisco has become much more difficult so that it is no longer a simple walk-up.
Approach and Camps
From Huaraz [1] take a collectivo to Yungay (1.5hr). In Yungay find a shuttle to Pisco base camp in Llanganuco valley (Quebrada Llanganuco). Make sure that you go 5km behind the second lake at the first hairpin-curve (tourist buses usually only go to the first lake!). It will be marker 77km at the curve.
Cebollapampa (elevation: 3900m)
During the main climbing season, you can hire arrieros (mule drivers) to transport your gear. From the curve, walk through the forest to the meadow below. You can camp here (there is water nearby) or continue on. Cross the stream (there is a small bridge) and follow the obvious NW trail that heas up to the left hillside to Pisco base camp (aka Refugio Peru). There is a spring nearby. The camp sites around the 3 large boulders are drier than the other ones. It will take between 1 1/2 - 3hrs from the road.
Pisco base camp (elevation: 4600m)
From base camp, follow the cairns, crossing the moraine and rock and boulder-covered glacier to the other side. Climb up the opposite ridge and follow the trail. Pass the first large green lake (possible campsites) on your right-hand side and gain more altitude, reaching what remains of a small upper lake (often dry) where the moraine campe is located. 1 1/2 - 3 hrs from base camp.
Pisco moraine camp (elevation: 4900m)
The moraine camp is pretty dirty, so if you are well acclimatized, skip it and go directly to the summit from base camp. If you are not acclimatized, spend more time in Cebollapampa (day hikes to nearby lakes are a great way to acclimate) and then go to base camp.
Route - Southwest Ridge
Because you will be getting an alpine start, it is a good idea to check out the cairned path crossing the moraines the day before. Follow the path and cairns up the slabs to the glacier edge (45-60 min from moraine camp). Gain the glacier at the highest point (5150m) of the moraine and head directly W up the glacier to the Pisco-Huandoy col (5300m).
Turn right (E/NE) at the col and climb the N side of the SW ridge, heading toward the summit. You will encounter slopes of 30-45 degrees. There will be some crevasses to negotiate (some potentially serious), and at 5450m there is a serac zone requiring ice-climbing (50m, 50º). Follow the southwest rige to the top. (3 - 5 hrs from moraine camp to summit)
Descend on the same route (50m rappel).